Guangzhou trip
I left Beijing on Monday at five am. I discovered thanks to my cab driver that I was actually leaving from Beijing West train station rather than the central one like thought. Fortunately I still made my train from the further away station.
I found my berth and arranged my bags. ’Hard-sleeper’ class (as opposed to soft-sleeper) doesn’t have separated cabins for them, just a pair of three-stacked, two and-a-half-by-six-and-a-half-foot mattresses going up to the ceiling in each cubicle section. I was on the top-top bunk with three feet of headspace.
I sat down for a while on one of the fold down chairs in the open aisle and talked to a guy who was in Beijing for job training and was on his way back home. I told him I was studying an MBA and he told me his country was in trouble because of MBA’s. He explaind: ”maybe MBA is popular in your country but not here”; and added “it’s very cheap for you to travel in my country.” I climbed up on my bed and dozed off thinking I was leaving rich, cosmopolitan China and that my impressions of the country based on Beijing were about to be changed.
I woke up gradually a few hours later and the car was bursting with activity. Parents played with their children and men gambled and smoked. A procession of carts of snacks and toys had started down the aisle and I sat at the fold-down chair taking it all in, drinking instant coffee I’d brought, and sketching the humanity in front of me in my journal.
Clump-clump we rolled along. I ate some ramen noodles and read. We must have gone been gone for five or six hours and there were still buildings and semi-urban landscape outside. I noticed that in addition to Poplars, China has Sumach bushes like Canada.
At this point the novel environment had lost its cache and I started to get bored. I think I slept or day-dreamed for a bit before going to the ‘dining’ car to eat what was to be the only bad food I’ve had in the two months I’ve been here. Think of airplane food in Chinese flavours minus ten. Yuck.
I got to sleep soon after eating and when I woke up the next morning we were in rice fields and low mountains. I saw some oxen out the window and other signs of rural—goats, I believe.
Around 11 am we pulled into Guangzhou, capital of Guangdong province and ancient trade-centre for the South China Sea and Canton region. I walked out on to the station platform into warm subtropical air.
The square in front of the train station bustled. New people abounded from those of the North—Chinese Muslims in square hats, for instance.
I lined up to get a return train ticket (you can’t buy round trips in China) and discovered there were no sleepers available on the trip back, only a seat for a twenty-five hour trip. Oh, well. I’d deal with this when the time came.
I got on the subway and went to my hotel in an area close to the Pearl River. It was in a residential area not unlike the irregular hutong streets of Beijing but with some differences: they were built up high and the vegetation was plusher with big trees canopying some streets.
I was tired and lay down for a while at the hotel. The privacy was a pleasur after the train. I went out a bit later to explore, planning to climb one of the Hong-Kong-esque mountains in the North of the city. But after taking the subway up to where the map said ‘natural scenery area’ I decided it was a bit too exploratory, no Parks Canada offices in sight just streets with Chinese signs leading into forests.
I went to an urban park instead. It was in the style of European parks, gated and walled-off, immaculately-kept. Some of the plants had leaves the size of bath-mats; Snake plants grew like crab grass.
I wandered past a football stadium and an ancient watch-tower once used to look out for marauding pirates in the river delta. I found more new sorts of people: Africans, Australians, Arabs and Indians all of whom created a new sense of region for me, less of Mainland China, more of Oceania and South-East Asia.
My last observations on the way home were the statues of the Eight Martyrs. I couldn’t read their plaques for details but they were impressive all-the-same, standing ten-feet in height, waving books, guns, or with hands-to-hips. (I gather they fomented the overthrow of the last Chinese Emperor in 1911. Guangzhou is also famous for being the first place where unions protested and precluding the 1952, ‘Red Wave’.)
The next morning I went to the Chinese Import and Export Fair—the Consumerist Wave—I’d come for. The building had an outer shell of horizontal beams that made it look like a space ship. From top deck I looked down the hazy river at the elegant city skyline before entering the wild interior of the building.
I found a map and charted my course around the mini-city of a convention centre. I wanted to start with Medicines and Medical Devices, see Garments and Textiles, Foods, and Sports and Recreation.
The cornucopia of stuff was amazing. Among the more bizarre things were infra-red light-healer machines, Essence of Chicken (?), thermal tattoo printers, silicon infant-delivery apparatuses for midwife training, and ‘wild-buffalo’ sports drink. I didn’t succeed in finding anyone to answer my questions of ‘why do Chinese men appear to have more hair than Westerners’ and ‘why do all Chinese seem to sleep so easily?’ (often in crowed public places), but I did find another potential health product: moxibustion. What it is generally-speaking, is the burning of mugwort or rose herb to create heat and stimulate blood circulation to areas of the skin. You put a stick of the incense-like stuff in a flashlight-sized metal stick, light it, cap it with a vented orb that heats up and apply it to your skin. I don’t know if it was the smell or the soft, indirect heat but the sensation was pleasant when the salesperson put the stick on the back of my neck.
Tired from walking around so much, I went back to the hotel. (I grabbed a herbal tea on my way back to help my inner fire. Inner fire is caused by—among other things—fast food which I’d had for lunch.) I lay down for a bit and then went out for dinner. I had bbq duck, steamed brocoli and beef balls and two Pearl River beers, and went exploring in a new direction: South.
The Pearl River is about one-two hundred meters wide, trafficed by tour boats and Frisbee-sized turtles, spanned by numerous bridges, and lined by wide sidewalks of strolling Guangzhou-ians. At night the bridges and boats are lit up in bright pink, yellow and green lights, flashing and morphing continuously. It’s a circus complete with monkey handlers on the sidewalks. (I’d never been so close to a monkey in such a human environment. It looked extremely relatable minus the collar and leash.)
I came to sign with a map of the area and decided to go look for the founder of Zen Buddhism’s temple and ‘nylon market’, whatever that was. I picked up a foot-and-a-half long piece of skinned sugar cane that I mulched and I sucked on on the way.
I didn’t find the temple but couldn’t miss the ‘nylon market.’ ‘Nylon’ was clearly misprinted ‘neon’ because this placed burned my retinas. Imagine a thousand Times Squares and you’ll be a little way there. This is what I think should be shown has a textbook example of ‘China in transition.’
Despite the sugar cane I was tired and wanted to get a good sleep for my train ride home. I passed some seedier parts of town outside of the nylon market where pre-teenaged boys solicited “massages” and street lights were sparse. I made it back to my hotel unmolested.
Check out. Train station. Seat. (On my way to the station I saw a living severed fish-head the size of a large Pike’s. Gross.) Only room for luggage was under my seat on the train. It half-jutted out into the aisle-way that was packed with standing-room ticket-holders, carts and more luggage. I drank some instant coffee and read.
This section of the train was much less comfortable and the amount of cigarettes and ramen consumed was much greater than in the sleeper cabins. Having no personal space let me appreciate how talkative Chinese people seam to be: the group beside me talked for six hours straight at one point (all the seats faced each other). One guy made use of my bag as a seat/bed.
Coffee, ramen, dragon’s eye fruit (like lychees), soy sauce-marinated sunflower seeds, and reading passed the day and evening. I managed a few winks of sleep and gratefully saw the Northern poplars again in the morning—Southern chaos was starting to wear on me. We got into Beijing West train station and I walked through the Chinese Government bureaus district on my way to the subway. I smiled at smiling Pekinese dogs and the orderly street-scape.
But at the subway station I discovered the trains weren’t running. I guess I was still in a different place within a much different place after all. Oh well, another cab got me safely to my destination.